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Rue des Rosiers: A Paris Jewish Neighborhood
Rue des Rosiers refers to the narrow street and to the general area around Rue des Rosiers (Rosebush Street). This is traditionally the Jewish area of Paris, the main thoroughfare of the larger Marais’ historic Jewish Quarter since Roman colonization. Rue des Rosiers is a short walk from St. Paul metro stop in th 4th arrondissement. The “Rosiers” neighborhood includes Rue des Rosiers, Rue du Roi du Sicile, Rue Pavée and Rue Vieille du Temple. Centrally located, it is a great area to call home base and begin exploring the city.
As you walk down the street you can get a sense of Paris’ rich history. Signs are written in both Hebrew and French. The area is also known simply as Pletzl, the Yiddish word for “square” or little place. Since the 13th century Jewish families have made this area their home. Up until the early 19th century Paris Jews lived an uncertain life as they were periodically expelled from France or discriminated against by which ever king or authority was in power. Perhaps the darkest period in the history of Rue des Rosiers was during the Nazi occupation when many of the residents including children were deported to concentration camps.
Today the atmosphere is very different, with the aroma of Middle Eastern and Yiddish food filling the air. The street is lined with fabulous bakeries, traditional delicatessens, kosher butchers and Judaica stores. Some of the more traditional Jewish establishments are progressively being replaced by upscale modern boutiques. However the pleasant neighborhood feel, pedestrian areas and small stores make this one of the quaintest areas in Paris. One of the plus points of Rue des Rosiers is that the stores stay open on Sundays and Christian holidays where as it is illegal for other stores in France to open on a Sunday. However, most stores are closed on Saturdays, the Jewish Sabbath.
Points of Interest on Rue des Rosiers
At #4 you’ll spot the pink façade of the former Hammam Sauna Saint-Paul established in 1863. Later the building housed a vocational school, whose staff and students were deported during WWII and sent to concentration camps. The building bears a plaque in memory of those that lost their lives.
#23 is an 18th century mansion which has been restored to its former glory and in the courtyard of #16 there are the remains of another historical mansion. At the corner of Rue Ferdinand-Duval is an historic building housing a Jewish library. At #17 you’ll discover a small synagogue and #10 is the 1913 building designed by art-nouveau architect Hector Guimard. Synagogue de la Rue Pavée is another interesting building and a national historic monument. If you pass #7 Rue des Rosiers you will see a sign for Restaurant Goldenberg. Although this is no longer an eatery it was the site of a terrorist attack in 1982 (Fusillade de la Rue des Rosiers), and you might be able to still spot some of the bullet marks in the façade. Visit Sabon at #32 for soap made with Dead Sea minerals.
For some delicious Eastern European treats visit Marciano bakery, try falafel at L’As du Falafel or MiVaMi, the Finkelsztajn bakery and delicatessen, Charcuterie Panzer Eastern European deli, Mr. Benaim’s kosher pizza and the local shawarma restaurant.
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